Tasting
chocolates - according to Sulpice
Debauve
Purveyor to French kings and
a must for all true connoisseurs,
Debauve & Gallais is pleased
to offer a singular range of dark
chocolates featuring an exceptional
grade of aromatic cocoa (many
consisting of 72%, 85%, even 99%
cocoa) aimed at an exclusive clientele
of chocolate purists. Many aesthetes
and gourmands have attempted to
define the rules for chocolate
tasting. For our part, we offer
several reflections made by our
founder, Sulpice Debauve, on the
subject. These reflections were
taken from correspondence dating
back to the 1830s and reveal his
thoughts on the ideal circumstances,
moment, and methods of tasting.
FIRST
RULE: Circumstances - a spiritual
state
According to the Aztec culture,
cocoa - or Theobroma - is the
drink of the gods. Like many of
the most refined foods, cocoa
tasting requires a clean palate.
Tasting should be a moment of
meditation, an opportunity to
escape the stresses of daily life
and renew our sense of true values.
"It is important, above all, to
take one's time and to make each
moment of tasting a moment of
eternity. Serene, surrounded by
loved ones, with a calm spirit
- allow yourself to become absorbed
in the taste of the chocolate."
SECOND
RULE: The moment - heightening
one's awareness of tastes and
aromas
The ideal moment for tasting a
dark chocolate bonbon is between
meals. In effect, hunger sharpens
the perception of cold aromas
while the beginning of the digestive
process awakens the perception
of hot aromas. It is also possible
to approach tasting in this way:
before meals, taste "hot aromas"
- in this case, ganaches - and
after meals, taste only "cold
aromas" - or pralinés.
"The palate appreciates all best
when its tasting ability isn't
muddled by a pressing hunger or
the saturation of the tastebuds
following a large meal."
THIRD
RULE: Methods - perception and
enjoyment of the details
Debauve's instructions for eating
chocolates are precise: Place
a chocolate in the middle of your
tongue. Chew slowly, several times.
Let the chocolate linger for several
seconds, during which time you
may notice a warm sensation from
the outer coating of cocoa as
it melts on the tongue. The bonbon
- still resting on the palate
- then begins to withdraw into
a blend of subtle aromas until
finally it overwhelms the palate
with all of the richness of its
flavors. |